In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how to create a cool apocalyptic poster. I'm going to use Photoshop CS4 and hopefully I will make this very easy for you by explaining in detail what you have to do.

Create a fantasy photo manipulation with an angel who is sitting on the clouds and prays. Along the way,we`ll be using lights and shadows,selection techniques,pen tool and brushes.

This is a tutorial about Photoshop workflow with an HDR image. The whole process from merging the photos to tone mapping is explained in detail.

Develop raw photographs using Adobe Camera Raw. Navigate the Raw panels. Adjust the Temperature and Tint sliders. Use the White Balance tool.

Have you ever created an HDR image and thought it looked too fake? Here's an interesting and easy way to have more control over your HDR images and make them look more subtle and realistic...

This thorough tutorial walks you through the basic concept of HDR photography and how to use Photoshop to make your photographs pop.

In this tutorial I'm going to show you how to use Adjustment Layers to properly display your photograph in the photo contests.

A black-and-white photograph is all about the subtle matrix of tonal values that give shape and form to the image. Knowing how to precisely apply modifications to light and shadow is key to fine-tuning a black-and-white photo. In this tutorial, we’ll take a look at some ways to shape and enhance the tonality of a black-and-white image with some quick and simple techniques.

The essentials and basics of fashion photography. Anyone who wants a better understanding of fashion and glamour should definitely give this a read.

A quick tutorial showing how to get more from your standard shot or image.

I like to see lovely saturated color in my photos but sometimes the color I capture just doesn’t do justice to the subject and it isn’t what I remember the scene looked like. Boosting the color can turn a lackluster image into one that totally rocks. So, if you find that the color in your photos is lacking, here’s what I do to make it better. The process is ridiculously simple, it requires no selections to be made, and it can be recorded as a simple action. It’s my kind of fix – quick, easy and very powerful.

Back in the early 1970's I learned a lesson about depth during the "String Art" craze. It was so popular it was actually being taught in schools. Basically put; you created geometric shapes, placed a certain number of points on those shapes, and connected those points with different colors of thread. The end result looked like a "Spirograph" drawing (another 70's classic), but these were more 3-dimensional. When I first learned this, the school had us poking holes in poster board and then stringing it. My family regularly attended arts and crafts shows.

One classic technique that digital cameras make very easy is blending more than one exposure together for contrast control, increased dynamic range, or creative purposes. A variation on this technique is to apply different RAW-conversion settings to a single RAW file and then combine the files into a single image. Let’s explore both approaches and look at the proper camera technique behind the scenes.

Without overwhelming beginners, this tutorial takes you through a crucial first step in a good portrait retouching workflow: color and tone adjustments. Curves adjustments layers are used to create restrained but effective improvements.

On-site instruction on how to take an HDR photo set (3 photos each with different exposures) using a Nikon D50 digital SLR camera. Includes a walkthrough of the settings you should use to take the photo.

So, this is based purely on trying to recreate the look in the picture that you posted, so I'm not sure if you're only looking for a tutorial on that or on negative images in general, but hopefully this helps.

In this tutorial we will take a look at HDR photography. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D and is now in full force in photography. Basically it's the process of taking multiple exposures and merging them together into a single 32 bit image. Let me explain: A camera is capable of capturing a limited amount of tones in a single photo. Typically we sacrifice elements in a photo when we press the shutter. For example there is a powerful cloudscape and some cliffs. If we expose for the clouds the cliffs become dark. If we set the camera's exposure to capture detail in the cliffs, the brighter sky is blown out and detail is lost. This is because the human eye can see a larger range of tones than the camera can capture on the chip or film in a single photograph. The solution is to take more than one photograph and bracket the photos. Shoot normal exposure, then under-expose a shot to capture highlights and over-expose a shot to capture shadow detail. Finally, merge these photos together to produce a single image with a larger range of tones that can now show all the details in the shadows and highlights. This tutorial will show you how to complete this process with the minimum fuss.

Offering tips on different ways to insure your photos will be sharp and clear; includes information on stabilizing your camera using certain stances or equipment.

What happens when we select a certain ISO value in our digital camera? What is the best ISO setting for our particular camera? Can we change it light-heartedly or does it deserve a more careful consideration? Read on to learn how we can improve our photographs through the right selection of the ISO setting. Let me give you the bad news, first. Camera manufactures do not disclose strategic and sensitive information such as what happens internally when the user select a certain ISO value. Anyway, through sound reasoning and a little of reverse engineering we can speculate on it and come to meaningful conclusions. In particular, reverse engineering is best performed on RAW file format, rather than JPEG, because JPEG compression introduces artifacts and algorithms complicating the process.

As a frequent Photoshop CS, CS2/3 user (we teach it at work) I tend to like the speed of raw conversion using the as shot camera settings and the colors from NX, so I use NX as my primary processing program. Nothing can replace Photoshop, however, and I consider it a must have tool to be coupled with Nikon NX. One area of confusion that occurs at times is the sharpening settings in NX. You really can't transfer the exact settings from PS or other programs into NX. The strength and ranges do not match up. Because of this I have compiled some information to assist in output print sharpening of images that I find useful in Nikon NX.